(02) 9316 5666
16/ 133-137 BEAUCHAMP ROAD MATRAVILLE NSW 2036
Bleaching wood is easy with LiteniT 2 part wood bleaching system, designed & made in Australia.
Due to the patented part A activator, there are no VOCs, therefore, it is very safe to use with impressive results.
LiteniT will bleach any wood for any purpose.
Used for cleaning the wood after the bleaching process, neutralizes and brightens the wood surface.
LiteniT Wood Bleaching System. A safe, VOC free, 2- component liquid wood bleach system that will remove the natural colour from bare wood. LiteniT’s component “A” is
basically a colourless and odourless aqueous solution. When combined with component “B”, the only vapour present from the chemical reaction is a concentrated oxygen.
Ideally the wood you are planning to bleach should be bare timber. Clean, dry and free from coatings, sealers, oils & waxes.
Part (A) is the activator. Its job is to pull the tannin and natural colour from the wood to the surface. So expect the wood to go darker in colour when Part(A) is applied.
Use a brush for small areas like furniture, benchtops or stairs as if you putting on a coat of varnish.
For larger areas such as floors, decks
Cut in with a brush and use a string mop and bucket to apply as if you were washing the floor.
Don’t miss any spots and wipe off any areas that have pooled with product.
You just need to achieve a wet look. You will notice rather quickly as the tannin is drawn out, (see fig. A)
The colour change can be quite dramatic depending on the species of wood.
You don’t have to wait until the surface is dry before applying Part (B). With some larger projects, some areas will start to dry while
others are still damp. This is fine, the more important thing is the wet sheen is gone otherwise it is more difficult to see where you are
going with Part (B). As both parts are clear.
WARNING: DO NOT MIX PART A & PART B TOGETHER IN THE SAME CONTAINER. The
reaction will cause the mixture to foam up and overflow. If you are using the same mop
& bucket for both parts, rinse thoroughly with water before and after Part (B)
Apply Part (B) in the same manner as Part(A).
When using a string mop and bucket, only dip the first 10 centimetres of the mop into the Part(B). As there is a chemical reaction
between the 2 parts, too much Part(B) through the mop will cause it to heat up and destroy the mop.
Be careful with Part (B), as it is a strong grade H2O2 which is a oxidizing agent and will burn your skin. So protect yourself with
chemical gloves and eye protection. Application of Part (B) starts to bleach the extracted tannin and wood fibres, almost immediately.
You may notice some fizzing & foaming from the reaction and the colour changing rather quickly. This is normal. (see fig. B)
Now we wait until the wood is dry. Atmospheric conditions need to be factored in to the equation. Though usually overnight is required. Once the wood is dry, that’s the level of bleaching achieved from that application. Some species of wood may require a repeat
of the process. If they are really hard and dense or notably high in tannin colour like Merbau. Your next and very important step in the
process, is cleaning the wood surface to remove all residues from the bleaching process. No coatings or finishes at all will stick or cure
on the surface without cleaning. Use fresh water and a small amount of detergent. For floors, you can use a garden sprayer to apply
the water and small amount of detergent and a buffing machine with a green pad to work it in. Then a string mop and bucket to pick up
the residue. For Decks, use a stiff broom and the water hose. Smaller applications may be done with absorbent cloths. Once the wood
is dry from cleaning, it may be finished with any wood washes, stains, waxes, oils and clear coatings you prefer.
Once the job is clean and you notice some missed spots, just apply some more Part(B) with a brush. Leave for 60-90 mins, then clean
off and allow to dry.
DO NOT USE OUTDOORS IF RAIN IS EXPECTED WITHIN 4 HOURS.